ok, I've bitten the bullet and upgraded my Lenovo. Download took over 3 hours, installation was very fast - probably 35 minutes. System now starts within 10 seconds, shutdown I timed at 3 seconds. Very fast (the joys of having a SSD HD!) and Edge is a fantastic browser. Cortana is good - it must be if it can understand my inane ramblings and my Bristol Channel/Welsh hybrid accent. I'd still like to do a clean install though, but how would that work and where would I get the new serial number - Magic Jelly Bean doesn't support W10 yet.
Didn't they give you a new serial during the upgrade Rob? I had heard that was what they did? You are supposed to be able to get install media that you can burn yourself as well. And from that media you are allowed to do a clean install, I agree it is what I would always want to do.
Mine is starting and shutting down really fast as well, but on a brand new Samsung EVO 850 500Gb drive, the iOPS are only two thirds what they should be because of SATA controller issues.
You can get your Windows 10 Key using Belarc Advisor, I just tried it. But you don't actually need it. Microsoft stores the key on its servers and matches that to the hardware you have installed. That matching happened when you upgraded from the previous version of Windows and is why you had to follow an upgrade path for the free edition. You cannot enter a Windows key yourself into Windows 10. You would need to burn the Windows 10 ISO onto a bootable DVD or bootable USB drive (at least 3 GB) and set your BIOS to boot from your bootable source. The Windows 10 ISO allows you to format the disk before proceeding with the install. Select custom option to format your disk first. You may want to think about re-partitioning the hard disk as I don't believe that Windows 10 uses a recovery partition. You may want to research that a little more first before making a decision to re-partition. The ability to re-size a partition is built-in to Windows 10, so you can re-partition before or after the clean install, but I would suggest before is better. http://www.belarc.com/free_download.html https://www.microsoft.com/en-GB/sof...?OCID=reserve_r_PostReserve_MediaCreationTool When I installed, I followed a different approach. I clean installed Windows 7 again and then upgraded to Windows 10 via Windows Update. That means I still have the opportunity to easily downgrade to Windows 7 if circumstances dictate within the first month. After that, Windows 10 automatically deletes the Windows.old file. oss may have other ideas as, I understand, he always clean installs new operating systems, rather than upgrading.
Yeah an expensive business just bought yet another 2TB WD external drive for backup purposes and then got a new Samsung 500GB SSD, I do definitely prefer clean installs, it is just because of all the PatchCache junk that you can't safely get rid of just in case you want to remove a program or reinstall a program.
When I re-installed Winows 7 I clean installed it and I was amazed how much faster it was. 360 Security was saying I had boot up times of as low as 8 seconds!
Windows 7 was always fast, the problem is that the Windows Update patch mechanism and application patch mechanism eventually drags a machine to it's knees Hopefully Windows 10 is better but only time will tell.
But when I clean-installed Windows 7 I had to re-patch anyway before upgrading to Windows 10 and I got that 8 second boot up time after all the patching, but it did slow to 12 second after installing a few programs and adding a second account. But that was still twice as fast as before the clean install of Windows 7. Windows 10 is not as fast, taking about 24 seconds to boot. Others have said that Windows 10 is faster than Windows 7 but that is probably because Windows 7 had already slowed down.
Over time windows accumulates a load of interim patches, when you reinstall you don't get exactly the same patches that were applied over x number of years, what you get is more of a cut down definitive set, so it is not a perfect like for like. Was your final install of 10 made onto a disk that had a nothing but a clean copy of 7 ? If it was still an upgrade of a copy that had 7 plus a load of apps then 10 may not land on a part of your disk that is as responsive as the tracks on the edge of the disk (obviously does snot apply to SSD's) but much more likely the issue is due to specific IDE and SATA controller drivers. For example on my machine Windows 10 installed generic Microsoft SATA controller drivers from 2006 instead of the more recent Intel ACHI controller and although I have a fast drive, when I benchmarked typical small file writes I was getting 1/3 of the throughput I was supposed to get, after hacking around I am now getting 2/3's the throughput I should get which is good enough for me, basically it appears that there is not yet a controller driver fully compatible with my older Lenovo hardware. The hacking around that I did was to manually install one part of an intel ACHI driver, if I installed both parts I got a worse result and if I tried to reinstall the first part I got a result that was worse than a hard drive Boot times for my Windows 8 drive and my new Windows 10 drive are comparable can't say I noticed a difference.
It had a clean install of Windows 7, but I added a few apps such as ccleaner and eraser two wipe the junk and free disk space before upgrading to Windows 10.
So it should have installed fairly near the edge, so the disk should not be an issue, more likely a controller issue then. When you do a right click & properties on these two nodes below in device manager what do you get on the Driver tab regards provider and date of the driver?
It had not occurred to me about being near the edge of the disk would make a difference in speed of Windows, but I have noticed before that when wiping a disk, that it gradually slows down during the process, presumably for the same reason. But I am quite happy with the boot times and I rarely use Windows anyway. You know that I am a Google man (Chromebook and Android) but I am re-thinking that stance, especially because of Android bugs that often don't get fixed. Windows 10 may just persuade me back at some point, though I would want a PC with a TPM chip and in Windows machines I don't think they are so cheap. All Chromebooks have TPM chips and some of them are under £200. When Windows 10 automatically deletes Windows.Old in 4 weeks time, I will probably do a clean install of Windows 10 at that point and see if that speeds things up a little. To answer your question... 1. Disk drive: ST3320418AS ATA Device 2. IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers: ATA Channel 0 ATA Channel 1 Intel (R) 82801 GB/GR/GH (ICH7 Family) Serial ATA Storage Controller - 27C0
The angular velocity is the same all over the disk but the linear velocity at the edge is much higher than at the centre, so many more blocks are read at the edge in the same amount of time compared to the centre. Yeah I know you like Google mate I have a Lenovo Android tablet recently upgraded to lollipop, yesterday it decided to go in a huff, it would not charge it would not boot even though it had about 17 hours battery left anyway finally it came out of it's Tampo about 11 pm last night I use it mostly as a portable TV and reader, watching movies and reading magazines but of course it has a secondary 'use case' (programing term) that lets me access my remote systems, I am fond of it but Google are not great at responding to issues like the recent huff that my device decided to take Buy a second hand ThinkPad X220, T420, T520 or W520 they have TPM chips and you can get a great T420 for less than 200 quid these days on eBay, later generation X230 and so on are not so great, the 20 series were the last real ThinkPad's 30 series introduced nasty compromises.
Well it looks like it picked the best options for your hardware, don't know why you are getting much worse startup times on 10.
No serial number provided with the upgrade, but I'll use Belarc to get that. I've created install media already on DVD, by creating an image from the ISO file downloaded from MS. Tested it and it works fine. Where I probably got confused was that I was trying to install W10 from the install media (before the upgrade), and when it asked for a serial number that's when I got thrown. Now that I've upgraded, I would assume a serial number won't be asked for if I go for a fresh install. Now that I've used W10 for a day, I'm liking it already - its faster than 7 or 8 on my Lenovo, its amazing to see Edge snap open. Even Word opens near instantly.
Don't know mate (re serial number) but it will save me lots of experiments if you figure it out Yeah edge is nice and it is a work in progress, nowhere near finished. Odd things in Edge like you drag a tab off of edge to create a new window, the only way to put it back is to grab the icon and place that between the tabs in Edge and then it will go back to the original container, however you are left with an orphan empty Edge container they still have a bit of work to do but yeah it is great, it's like having Chrome for the first time all over again SSD's are great for the like of Word and 10 is pretty good with that, mine still takes about 1 second to open Word, not sure the disk drivers are right yet. In browsers like edge I really like that instead of right click search Google, you now get right click ask Cortana, I like Corti she's nice and she gives pretty good results. That's part of what I meant earlier about the fact that 10 can subtly move you away from Google, it is an exceptionally clever strategy
Ah one important point about Edge that you might not have found out so far When you open an Wdge tab the keyboard focus is not always in the search box, when that happens press CTRL + E which is the standard search command in ordinary Windows Explorer everywhere except for Outlook ( for stupid historic reasons ).
